Trina Wickenden

Empowering Women Artisans Through Craft and Culture

Trina Wickenden
Empowering Women Artisans Through Craft and Culture

Al Ghadeer Emirati Crafts made its stunning debut last week at the London Design Festival showcasing for the first time outside the United Arab Emirates. The launch of the Tirhal ('journey') Collection marked a contemporary revival of traditional Emirati design, captivating thousands of design-savvy Londoners and International buyers at the Truman Brewery venue, which hosted the London Design Fair.

The Tirhal Collection was conceptualised by Lithuanian-born textile designer Loreta Bilinskaite-Monie. It is a tribute to traditional Emirati design brought to life with contemporary aesthetics, encapsulating the journey from ancient tribal roots to modern innovative society.

Bedouin women using traditional Al Sadu weaving techniques

At the heart of the Tirhal Collection lies the skill and talent of 16 Bedouin women who are among more than 300 who have taken part in the Al Ghadeer Emirati Crafts programme. These skilled artisans intricately handmade each piece using sustainable materials, including locally sourced sheep's wool and natural dyes. The collection celebrates the deep-rooted cultural practice of Al Sadu weaving, an age-old tradition that saw women transform wool from their sheep into exquisite decorative furnishings such as tent dividers, cushions, and pillows.

Bedouin women using traditional Al Sadu weaving techniques

Loreta Bilinskaite-Monie's vision for the collection captures the significance of cloth folding in the lives of tribes across the Arabian Peninsula, who would fold up their tents, load them onto camel trains and travel from place to place. Each piece showcases a modern, pixelated interpretation of traditional weaving patterns, symbolizing the nomadic lifestyle of Bedouin communities. “This design is a homage to the traditional life of Bedouin women – its authenticity and sustainability,” she says. “My aim was to showcase these weavings as their identity, their personal narrative and to connect this rich social heritage with the sustainable, practical and modern vision of the UAE.”

Tirhal (‘Journey’) Collection (Image credit: Mark Cocksedge)

The colour palette represents the natural tones dominant in traditional tribal life in the Arabian Peninsula; the deep blue is produced from the powder of the indigo plant, pale green is created from the ghaf tree, burnt orange comes from natural henna powder mixed with hibiscus and the two-tone black and white reflects the traditional Al Mudayla’iya Emirati weaving pattern.

Her Highness Sheikha Shamsa bint Hamdan Al Nahyan, founder of Al Ghadeer Emirati Crafts, emphasises the empowering impact of these initiatives: “Empowering women financially and socially through crafts is our core value,” she says. “And when you give a woman a skill, she becomes financially independent. You are making a strong productive community. Our craftswomen are uniquely talented and, as this collection shows, are not only preserving our roots and heritage but helping to deliver a new chapter for Emirati designs”.

Tirhal (‘Journey’) Collection (Image credit: Mark Cocksedge)

The artistic journey of the Tirhal Collection is a testament to the cross-cultural collaboration between international designers and local artisans. A group of dedicated women artisans, many of whom are mothers and grandmothers, worked with designers to elevate traditional textile weaving into five stunning benches that cater to international tastes.

The Tirhal Collection’s launch at the London Design Fair marked a pivotal moment for Al Ghadeer Emirati Crafts, as it introduced its sustainable and culturally rich practices to a global audience at such an important international event. Through this endeavour, Al Ghadeer aimed to create economic opportunities and skills education for women artisans, enabling them to transform their communities and contribute to a more sustainable world.

Tirhal (‘Journey’) Collection (Image credit: Mark Cocksedge)

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Banner Image: Tirhal (‘Journey’) Collection (Image credit: Mark Cocksedge)